San Cristobal was the first island that Darwin visited and it’ll be the last one that we see before we disembark in the morning. It’s the perfect sendoff really: the morning allows us a leisurely hike ashore and some time to swim and sun bathe with a half dozen jovial sea lions. It’s nature’s Disneyland and it would trump Walt’s manufactured world of happiness for any kid lucky enough to come here. We’re also able to pull another of the naturalists aside to film a short discussion about sustainable development. The afternoon takes us to Kicker Rock, an islet off the western coast of San Cristobal, where we snorkel with seal lions, sea turtles and well over a dozen Galapagos sharks. It’s a highlight of the expedition.