It was a good 32nd birthday. Alison’s first words to me were “Happy Birthday” when our alarm went off at 4:45am. We woke up early to catch the sunrise down on the Ganges. The boat took us along the river and after an hour or so we stopped along the ghats for some chai tea. It was a pleasant awakening. In the afternoon we went to Sarnath to where Buddha preached his first sermon. A 1200 ft. stupa—at least 1500 years old—marks the site. At dusk we went up to the hotel rooftop to have some drinks before a simple dinner at the hotel. After dinner Raghu surprised me with a birthday cake. He lit a match in place of a candle and held it for me while I made a wish and blew it out. When we celebrated Louise’s birthday a few weeks back Raghu made sure she got a face full of cake—I had my guard up so the same thing didn’t happen to me—and then it did. Before I knew it I had a cake in my hair and even up my nose. We went back up on the roof after dinner and drank until about 1:30am. It was a good 32nd birthday.